San Diego. California is not particularly known for surfing. The beaches mostly face the wrong direction, and the swell tend to be mild.
However, following a good storm in the Pacific, the surfers hit the beach.
The waves off San Diego’s shores tend to be short and fast, so longboarding is not common. Still, San Diego has is share of diehard fans.
Much of surfing is waiting. And waiting.
Waiting and waiting and waiting.
Finally the waves come!
Surfing with friends is a great way to spend the day.
You can see there is more to it than just standing on a board. It’s a true sport.
Even old guys surf.
Ideally you want to stand on your board, but neophytes can get the feeling of it by staying low.
“Staying on balance” is not always an option.
If you are going to fall (and you are going to fall), have fun.
Some surfers jump back over the wave when they dismount.
My guess is that this surfer took a lot of ballet lessons when he was young.
Laying on your board, Ironman-style, is a perfectly acceptable technique.
Sometimes the waves overtake you. Just ride it out.
Now this is a classic dismount: perfectly in control.
I’ve seen this more than once, and it is always surfer girls doing it. Don’t know why.
Sometimes everything lines up perfectly and you can fly!
Wow. This is why we live in San Diego.
Paddleboarders surf, and they use their paddle to better control the ride.
I’ve created a gallery of surfer photographs I’ve taken over the years. Enjoy.
And next time you are in San Diego — or at any beach — take a few surf lessons and feel the spirit!